it would be fair to say that this isn’t generous at present yet the underlying material is such that it should flesh out with a few years of bottle age

because of its enhanced botrytis character

penetrating and sweet on the palate

and will drink beautifully over the coming decade

with all the varieties very integrated

Moet & Chandon, Dom Perignon Oenotheque Vintage:1992 it would be fair toI tasted this at a friends 50th birthday, where we drank several incredible 1966 Bordeaux (the standout being Cheval Blanc 1966 that could easily have featured here). This was of course much younger, but just a brilliant Champagne. Richly textured, perfectly toasted from its 12 years on the lees (it was disgorged in 2008 and these later disgorged bottles have a little less dosage than the 2004 version). Elegant and precise but with layers of lemon